An Urban Jürgensen timepiece has always been an example of uncompromising craftsmanship, a tradition the company feel honour-bound to perpetuate. The Maison’s timepieces are not factory made out of some anonymous industrial building but carefully honed in a traditional atelier. The creation of an Urban Jürgensen watch is not the product of expedience, but instead the prolonged pursuit of excellence deploying the traditional highly specialised forms of craftsmanship reflecting the timeless traditions of the company.
At Urban Jürgensen there is a belief that perfection is seldom the product of haste. Machinery may offer capacity, but hand craftsmanship provides individuality and a lasting joy. While traditional materials ensure longevity, skilful hands are required to deftly manipulate tools in order to create horological objects of beauty.
In accord with the extraordinary history and high level of watch making of Urban Jϋrgensen, we are pleased to present our new 1140 RG L Brown for 2017. At first glance, the 1140 L RG Brown exhibits a simplicity that conceals the complexity of its creation. The construction methods and craftsmanship used appeal especially to connoisseurs of fine watchmaking. While some design elements and finishing are clear to see, others are virtually hidden from view. This new model complements the Jurgensen 1745 collection with a blend of our most precious examples of watchmaking art -, the Urban Jurgensen Hands, Guilloche dial, tear drop lugs and the in-house P4 movement.
The 40mm classical case design used in this reference, has a round form, teardrop shaped lugs and stepped bezel combined with exquisitely finished dial and hands.
Urban Jürgensen hands are very much hand-made. They comprise a significant number of components that are individually honed, assembled and finished. This naturally implies numerous hours of highly skilled workmanship and are a key feature of Urban Jürgensen timepieces. The steel arms of Urban Jürgensen hands are cut from selected steel and manually finished to ensure a perfect shape and fit.
Numerous hours of diligent polishing with increasingly fine-grained diamond paper are followed by mirror polishing using secret types of polishing paste applied using a variety of wooden pegs specially shaped for the task. The final touch is then set by meticulous thermal blueing, patiently performed by highly experienced artisans until they meet the inimitable Urban Jürgensen shade of navy blue. When the noble art of watchmaking is exercised at such a superlative level, the importance of the human hand is of course matched by that of a trained and expert eye. Symbolically, the ‘eye’ of the hour hand on Urban Jürgensen watches is a hand-crafted wonder in its own right: a concentrically diamond-polished solid gold insert that is precision-fitted and thus free of any glueing or soldering. Its asymmetrical design, gently tapered towards the tip, ensures a unique elegance. This unwavering commitment to excellence is further exemplified at the very centre of the dial, in the precision-turned and mirror-polished solid gold hand pipes (also known as bushes), around which the arms are riveted to ensure a perfect fit.
Urban Jürgensen are considered masters of the art of the hand finished guilloche dials. In the new model, it can be appreciated in the great attention to detail in the dial layout and pattern selections Grains d’orges and Guilloché Damier. Each dial requires up to 700 operations and takes 2 full days of hand work to complete on a guilloche lathe. After engine-turning, the dial is repeatedly brought to Rose heat and treated with acid to produce the unique warm colour by developing a fine layer of pure silver on the surface finally the dial is imbued with the proprietary Urban Jurgensen brown.
Hand-wound, hand-fitted and hand-made: hands at Urban Jürgensen indeed not only indicate time but in 2017 continue to stir the same excitement, approval and wonder among watchmakers and connoisseurs alike as they have for over 240 years.